From Berlin to Prague and back to London

Before we left Berlin, we were able to visit with friends of Stephen whom he met during his mission many, many years ago. Gisela Woite made delicious Bienenstich Kuechen and Apricose Torte to take to the Grauerts, Raimund and Traudl, who aren't able to get out of their home much. Traudl was recovering from a bad fall and a broken nose. Gisela took us to Prinzlauerberg Platz where we walked around an old East Berlin neighborhood and had a delicious dinner. We had probably the best Italian gelato EVER! On Potsdammer Platz, of all places. (You kids will remember)

GISELA, RAIMUND, ANN and TRAUDL - KAFFEE KLATSCH

On Sunday morning (10/7) we picked up a car and headed to Prague. Dresden is on the way so we stopped off to take a look at the amazing rebuilding of the center of the city which was virtually leveled by the American fire bombing during World War II. Since the fall of communism in 1989, the German government has begun restoring old Dresden. A number of buildings have been rebuilt, being put back together like a puzzle. The most recent completion is the Frauen Kirche. The new stones only noticeable by the brightness of the stone, compared to the smoke blackened old stones. They've made wonderful progress.

On to Prague where we met up with Ed Barner and had a dinner of Czech goulash or pork on potato pancakes and sourkraut. We had a lovely view of the Charles Bridge and the Prague Castle, all lit up with bright lights. Unlike Dresden, Prague was virtually untouched by the destruction of the war. Unfortunately, much of the city is marked by the more modern stain of graffiti. It seemed to be everywhere, with no regard for the beauty and grandeur of the building or monument. You see the base of the former, obligatory, Stalin statue high above the river. Prague was one of the last cities to tear down their statue when the Stalin cult fell out of vogue in the 50's. There is now a large metronom atop the spot. No one seems to know why or what the significance is.

THE FORMER STALIN STATUE, NEW ART

We went on a wonderful tour of the old castle, set up on the hill. Stephen's special favorite is St. George's Basilica, which is so simple in comparison to the ever present baroque cathedral, somewhat reminiscent of St. John's Chapel in the White Tower in London.

ST.GEORGE

The next day we escaped the swarming tourists (so many of them in October!) and took a walk along the heights, through Letensky Park high above the Vltava. We had a panoramic view of all the bridges, there must be nearly a dozen, including the famous Charles Bridge which was covered with tourists as thick as runners at the start of a marathon. We didn't mind since we were so far away.

ANN ON THE CHARLES BRIDGE

Early the next day (10/10) we started our trip back to Berlin. It was a rural route back, through the Ertzgebirge (mountains) where they make the wonderful wooden Christmas ornaments and smokers. In Germany they drive on the right side of the road (e.g. the correct side of the road) so this wasn't nearly the harrowing experience as the drive through the English countryside. Then back on the autobahn, into Berlin for one last currywurst and a set of discs for the philosopher, back out the Holiday Inn which was conveniently located right next to the Schoenefeld airport for our early flight the next day.

BACK IN KENNSINGTON GARDEN

Back in the Liverpool Road station. We both know the language and the tube stations and it almost feels like coming home. We checked into the Westland right around the corner from the BYU center, had a little rest, then headed out for walk in Kensington Gardens. It was a glorious day that couldn't even be spoiled by the inexplicable exhibit at the Serpentine Gallery (whaling boats and whale fat, technical climbing, and plastic). We had a look at the Queen's Gate which was manufactured by the Coalbrookdale iron factories (where we saw the Iron Bridge). Ann was hankering for a burger and fortunately, because McDonald's is simply NOT an option, London has a chain called the Gourmet Burger Kitchen (GBK) that fit the bill and was delicious. Then a reunion with family at the center.

We have a few more days to get our fill of London, and then we are looking forward to returning to our own cozy little cottage.

From Shropshire to Berlin

We're so glad we were able be together in London with Hank and Colette for a few days. We enjoyed Kew Gardens, “Michael Clayton,” walks and meals with you both. We left London Monday morning (10/2) and arrived at the Oxford station during a steady rain. Not far from the train station was a Thai restaurant that provided delicious lunch and temporary escape from the downpour. We decided to stay in Oxford overnight in a charming hotel whose pub was featured in Inspector Morse mysteries. The rain finally stopped and we enjoyed walking around the town and the Oxford colleges. The trip from Oxford to Shropshire and the Iron Gorge was harrowing, with Stephen expertly adjusting to the wrong side of the road, with only a few narrow misses on the narrow country roads. We arrived in Ironbridge several hours later, side mirrors in tact but Stephen had difficulty peeling his fingers from around the steering wheel. Stephen was so drained from the trip, and so enamored of the Iron Bridge, that we decided to stay two nights in the charming town at the base of the bridge. We found a wonderful little B&B called the Swan that seemed to echo with centuries of travelers and beer swillers. The bridge was maybe not so imposing as we expected, but we met an engineer from the National Heritage Sites who was recording the movement of the bridge, who gave us some interesting information about the bridge and the challenges that organization faces with over 360,000 sites and only 12 engineers.Leaving Shropshire Thursday (10/4) was less stressful since we had decided to take the M54 to the M6 to the M5 to the M42 to the M40 to Oxford. At least it was three lanes wide, more room for error. Then a trip by train from Oxford to Paddington, the tube from Paddington to Liverpool, the express to Stansted (which I might add is the most frustrating airport we've ever experienced) and a plane to Berlin. Planes, trains and automobiles all in one day. That was a first for Ann.Schoenefeld is a small airport by Standsted, Gatwick or even SLC standards so was easy to get through. The train took us straight into town, to a station close enough to walk to our hotel, passing a Currywurst stand for a late-night snack (it was 11pm by then). Hunger is the best chef and that was the best wurst ever.Friday (10/5) we went on a death march, even by David's standards, through Berlin Mitte. We calculated a total of around 12 or so km from our hotel through Tiergarten, around the Grosse Stern, past the Reichstag, through the Brandenburg Tor, down Unter den Linden, past Humboldt Universtaet, to Museum Island where serendipity delivered a huge (both in size and numbers) exhibit of Botero sculptures on the green in front of the Berlin Cathedral. Then around the museums and a walk to the Haeckesher Markt Station and a train back to our part of town, more walking to the hotel. Short rest then more walking to meet up with Stephen's friend, Giesela, where she fed us a lovely dinner and then hosted a sightseeing trip to Potsdamer Platz where we walked more and saw where Sony and Daimler-Chrysler and Deutsche Bahn have all built immense and modern buildings surrounding many shops. Sleep came quickly once we finally put head to pillow that night.Today (10/6) we are moving more slowly with plans to meet more friends of Stephen. Tomorrow we leave for Prague where we'll visit with Stephen's friend, Ed Barner, and then it will be back to London for a few more days before we return to the motherland.